India Through a Train Window: A Journey with My Sister Judy

Some trips stay with you because of the places you visit. Others stay with you because of the people you share them with.

Sun rising over a city skyline with silhouetted buildings and trees

For nearly twenty years, my sister Judy had been making regular trips to India. The spiritual center in Beas had become an important part of her life, and over the years I had listened to stories about her journeys there.

Despite all those years of travel, she had always gone on her own.

Then one year she invited me to come along. The year was 2005.

Part of the appeal was the opportunity to experience a place that meant so much to her. We also planned to stop in Thailand on the return trip to visit my son Sean.

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect from India, but I packed my camera, kept an open mind, and said yes to the adventure.

After a long international flight, Judy and I finally arrived in New Delhi.

Nothing could have prepared me for my first taxi ride through the city.

If you’ve ever been on a wild amusement park ride, you’ll have some idea of what it felt like. Cars, trucks, motorcycles, bicycles, rickshaws, and pedestrians all seemed to occupy the same stretch of road at the same time. Lanes appeared to be more of a suggestion than an actual rule.

Busy traffic in New Delhi featuring cars, trucks, and taxis. — My first experience with New Delhi traffic was unforgettable.

Our driver weaved confidently through the traffic while constantly honking his horn. At one point we had to avoid a cow standing calmly in the middle of the roadway as vehicles flowed around it.

The moment that made me laugh came when we noticed our driver driving straight through red lights.

When we asked what the red lights were for, he smiled and replied, “They are just a formality.”

Somehow, despite the apparent chaos, everyone seemed to know exactly what they were doing.

After spending the night in New Delhi and enjoying the luxury of a real bed after the long journey, we headed to the train station the next morning.

Our destination was Beas, a small town in northern India and home to the Dera that Judy had visited for so many years.

The five-hour train ride became one of my favorite parts of the entire trip.

Traveling by train offered a glimpse into a side of India that most visitors never truly experience. We rode first class, which felt wonderfully comfortable after our flights, and spent much of the journey simply watching the world pass by outside the windows.

Interior of a first-class passenger train traveling through India. — Our first-class train carriage provided a comfortable way to experience the Indian countryside.

The countryside unfolded like a moving photograph.

Open farmland stretched toward the horizon. Villages appeared and disappeared within moments. Children played near homes only a few feet from the tracks. Farmers worked fields much as they had for generations.

What struck me most was the contrast.

Holy cow standing on a busy street in northern India surrounded by traffic and pedestrians. — One of my first surprises in India was seeing cows casually sharing the streets with cars, bicycles, and pedestrians.

Some communities appeared extremely poor. Buildings were weathered and worn. Livestock wandered freely through the villages. Oxen, goats, buffalo, dogs, and cows all seemed to share the same spaces as the people.

Yet there was beauty everywhere.

Traditional yellow home in a village along a railway route in northern India. — Bright colors brought life and character to many of the homes we passed.

Many homes were painted in vibrant colors that stood out against the dusty landscape. People gathered outside their homes to talk. Children played in the streets. Life was happening everywhere we looked.

As a photographers I often wished we could stop the train every few minutes. There always seemed to be another scene just beyond the window that begged to be photographed.

Agricultural fields viewed from a train traveling through northern India. — The countryside unfolded like a moving photograph as we traveled by train toward Beas.

One image that has stayed with me all these years was a young boy looking out from a passing train. We never exchanged a word, but for a brief moment our journeys crossed as the trains rolled past each other.

Young passenger looking through the barred window of a train in India. — A quiet moment captured between passing trains during our journey across northern India.

Eventually we arrived in Beas.

After hours of villages, farmland, railway crossings, and bustling towns, entering the Dera felt like stepping into an entirely different world.

Temple architecture rising above the grounds of the Dera in Beas, India. — My first glimpse of the remarkable architecture at the Dera.

Beautiful gardens stretched across the grounds. Flower beds overflowed with color. Trees lined carefully maintained walkways. The architecture was elegant and distinctive, creating an atmosphere of peace and order that was impossible to miss.

Landscaped courtyard and architecture at the Dera in Beas, India. — Beautiful architecture and gardens created a peaceful atmosphere throughout the Dera.

Everything seemed designed to encourage quiet reflection.

For the next week, I explored the grounds, photographed the architecture, and enjoyed spending time together with my sister in a place that had been important to her for many years.

Colorful flower gardens at the Dera spiritual center in Beas, India. — Beautiful gardens added to the sense of peace throughout the Dera grounds.

One morning I woke before sunrise and stepped outside with my camera.

As the first light spread across the horizon, the buildings and gardens slowly emerged from the darkness. The morning air was still, and the entire property seemed to glow in the soft light of dawn.

It became one of my favorite memories from the trip.

Eventually our week came to an end.

We boarded the night train back to New Delhi and spent a final afternoon exploring the city before continuing our journey to Thailand.

Looking back now, what I remember most is not a particular building or landmark.

I remember the train ride.

I remember the villages rushing past the window.

People waiting with bicycles and rickshaws at a railway crossing in northern India. — A railway crossing offered a glimpse into everyday life as our train passed through small towns in northern India.

I remember the people waiting at railway crossings, the buffalo in the fields, the cows wandering city streets, and the feeling of seeing a completely different way of life unfold before my eyes.

Large herd of water buffalo gathered near a watering area in northern India. — Water buffalo were a common sight throughout the countryside.

Most of all, I remember sharing the experience with my sister.

For Judy, it was a return to a place she had known for decades.

For me, it was a first glimpse into a fascinating country and a journey I will never forget.

Looking back now, what I remember most is not a specific building or landmark. It is the feeling of discovery.

India challenged many of my expectations. It overwhelmed my senses at times. It surprised me constantly.

Most importantly, it reminded me how much there is to learn from experiencing a place firsthand.

What little we saw of India was remarkable, and sharing that experience with my sister made the journey even more special.

The adventure continued in Thailand, but that is a story for another day.

More images from India Trip

A glimpse of village life from the train window.
Businesses and daily life thrived alongside the railway tracks.
Railway crossings often became gathering places for people and transportation alike.
Cows wandered freely through many of the communities we passed on our journey.
Shops and businesses lined portions of our route through northern India.
Occasionally a temple would appear above the rooftops as we traveled.
The scenery began to change as we approached our destination.